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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. Yet, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary achievement.